Crocodiles On My Head, Swimming In The Nile, Landing In Cairo, Living Like There Is No Tomorrow

April 3rd,

The knocking on the door for the breakfast wake up call shook me from my deep sleep.  We went upstairs and had breakfast. 

Deciding to risk missing a day trip in a small boat up the Nile to visit the Nubians by going with our friend Mohammad, we left the boat at 9 and headed to the mosque where we had agreed to meet yesterday.  I put on my swimsuit and sandals and debated bringing my life jacket.

I think everyone was mutually surprised, including Mohammad, as all parties were on time and committed to the deal.  In the next few hours, I would have the best time so far on the trip and one of the best times of this whole incredible year.

With the camera out and ready, Antonio and I crossed the line of white boats, ducking under their colored canopies and decorative tapestries.  We met our driver, a kind looking, slightly big man who had two little sons on board as well.  The kids were funny and cute.  Third world children.  We started up the motor ready to begin our adventure. 

We had a private boat.  We pulled out onto the main Nile and then headed up the river taking a side stream toward the village of the Nubians.  Having put complete faith in a man who I didn't trust, I could only hope for the best.  Heading up the side stream we saw other people from our group come back the other way.  I waved and pumped my fist in the air.  We went up to the white roof and I marveled at the incredible beauty of the Nile.  Up on the roof Mohammad began to play a drum and sing.  He taught us some dances.  We were speaking to him in Spanish as he though all of us were Spaniards.

Entering Nubian country, we floated along the stream, dodging boulders and seeing warning signs in Arabic about the current and crocodiles.  We arrived at the dock of the Nubians and I ran up the sandy hill to catch up with Mohammad who had gone up ahead.  The town was very pretty with painted houses and women in Muslim dress.  There were dozens of camel riders, each one offering a ride to the tourists.  We walked together into a Nubian house with an open dirt patio.  In the center were glass cages housing crocodiles.  I got to hold one which I kissed and put on my head.  Mohammad knew everyone in the village.  We got henna tattoos while sipping on mint tea. 

Outside, we ran into everyone from our group. They already had to go and were getting to take our time.  We all mounted on camels, the girls in front and then got the longest camel ride I've ever had.  Veronica and I shared a camel that seemed to be lopsided as I kept slipping off.  We said goodbye to the village and got back on the boat.

We pulled into a deeper part of the Nile, still close to the shore and went swimming for the next hour.  I did a flip off the top of the boat and then swam with Antonio to a large rock about 30 yards away.  The girls and Mohammad swam over too.  

Sun bathing on the deck on the way back to the cruise ship, I felt like a king.  Back safely on our cruise ship, I said thanks to Mohammad and paid him 10 euros for the incredible morning.

Back on board we only had about 30 minutes to wait before our last lunch.  I took a hot shower and changed into the one nice shirt I'd brought along for the trip.  Antonio and I entered the dining room a little early and said hi to Hussein, our waiter and then got to take pictures with the chefs.  We loaded up the plates with more delicious food and sat down.  I wanted to make a toast, and once everyone was seated I "ting, tinged," my glass, stood up, suddenly nervous, and delivered an unprepared free form speech.  Although grammatically incorrect, I said thanks to our guide, crew members and for everyone else who had put up with our crazy antics.  I got a big round of applause.

In the next two hours before having to leave the boat, we cleaned up our rooms and packed our bags.  I sat upstairs talking with some of the people.  At 4 we had to leave the boat.  I had had an absolutely amazing time and was already missing it.  I shook hands with the crew members and gave one last long look at the Nile before boarding the bus.

I fell asleep on the drive to the airport.  There were a lot of groups all heading to Cairo.  We had to wait around for a while before boarding our plane for Cairo.  The pilot came in screaming fast, but everything went well with the landing.  Landing in the capital city were were met by more representatives from Royal Vacaciones.  After having to wait and fight to the front to get our luggage, we then walked a couple hundred yards, dodging the traffic to our bus parked up on the hill.  The bus would take us to two hotels, Pyramids Park and Grand Pyramids, both in the neighboring city of Giza on the other side of the Nile.  Were were assigned rooms and told what to do once we arrived at the hotel.  

The 5 start hotel was lavish, extravagant and the most luxurious place I've stayed in this year.  With is huge swimming pool, Bedouin tents and incredible conference halls, the hotel's wealth was matched in size only by the surrounding area's poverty.    Our room was posh with a flat screen TV and balcony overlooking the yard.  Housekeeping brought in more towels and extended the couch into a bed for Chupi as we were sleeping three in the room.  We tried swimming in the pool, but were told that it closed at 6:00pm.  

The girls were going to be meeting up with an Egyptian friend who had studied at UCSD, so Chupi, Antonio and I had a guys night out.  Our hotel was 4o kilometers from the center of the city, so out on the street we caught a taxi.  "75 pounds," he told us.  "15," we replied.  "OK."  We jumped in and sped off in the worst car I'd ever been in.  Smelling of gasoline, no seat belts and a driver who swayed back and forth on the road, I accepted the fact that I was already dead and found a surprising calm as we sped at high velocity over the bridge to Cairo. 

We asked him to drop us in the center next to the main square.  Having no plans, we decided to wander around.  After passing the area dominated by globalization, we got into the poorer, local neighborhoods.  We stopped at a nut store and ate some pistachios while drinking water.  We found a back alley with tables of men smoking hookah.  We sat down at a table and without sharing a common language with the waiter ordered beers and a hookah.  We were invited into the shop itself and sat with a few men.  One of the guys spoke English and we talked to him a little.  We hung out for a while, talking about the trip so far.  We then decided to go back to the hotel around 3:00 as we would be getting up at 7:00 to see the pyramids.

Our taxi ride back was even crazier than the first one as we sped through Cario at night, not stopping for a single red light.  The driver didn't actually know where he was going, but we eventually made it back to the hotel.  

Almost To Sudan! Abu Simbil, Aswan Dam, And Al-Jazeerah Sensation!

April 2nd,

The visit to Abu Simbil would cost 90 euros and no one wanted to pay it.  Antonio, Chupi, Melissa and I left the ship at 12:00am and went up the steps.

I began asking the guards and people directly outside the ship which was a mistake as they were all in cahoots with the cruise company.  The problem with Abu Simbil is that it is 250 kilometers away from Aswan, almost to the boarder of Sudan.  The road is not in good shape and frequented by bandits.  There are many security checkpoints, controlled by the military.  Military escorts are required as the area is dangerous.

I tried bargaining with some taxi drivers on the street. Their English was not good and they kept changing the price.  Their taxis were not legally allowed to go that far so we would have to go to a bus station, catch a bus and then take another taxi there.  There were also only two time windows to enter, one at 4:00am and 4:30am.  All of the challenges didn't stop us from asking a myriad of people from taxi drivers, train station employees, police and a separate hotel.  The hotel said we could have jumped on their trip for 20 euros but it was too late to sign up.  We decided we would head back to the boat and tell Amro we would go with the group.  I knew I would regret not seeing this temple and at least we had tried.

Back on the boat I was really tired having only slept 4 hours from the night before.  I showered and made ready my day pack.  At 3:00am we went upstairs to tell Amro we were coming with the group.  I grabbed my pillow and jacket as we boarded the bus.  I found a seet by the window and immediately passed out.  I remember waking up in the middle of the 3 hour ride to find us bumping along a dark desert road.  I thought to myself that it was good that we hadn't come in our own taxi.

At 6:00am we pulled into the Abu Simbil parking lot, passing the AK-47 carrying, black uniformed police.

Abu Simbil was on the shore of Lake Nasser, the location where Ramses II was born.  The two temples that we were about to see were dedicated to the Pharaoh and his favorite wife, Nefertiti.  Pushing and smiling with the mass of people, we passed through the security checkpoint and walked down the sandy, stone path to the temples.  Turning the corner, Abu Simbil was an incredible sight.  Two giant temples carved directly into the rock.  In the main temple's facade were 4 sitting pharaohs, smiling at the rising sun in the East.  On the roof of the temple were 20 monkeys who would say goodbye.  I was captivated by the first Pharaoh's smiling face, Ramses II as a young man.  So detailed and life looking.  Behind us was the lake sparkling and lined by palm trees.  I took pictures in front, but found it difficult to soak it all in.

Entering the temple, I was impressed by the by the towering pharaohs and the square labyrinth of rooms each with their hidden story.  On the walls were detailed, exaggerated drawings of Ramses II accomplishments.  Scenes of war in which Ramses II was killing five warriors at once.  There were drawings of the defeated enemies running away.  The second temple dedicated to Nefertiti was less extravagant but also stunningly beautiful with its symmetrical statues of the queen and paintings of her inside.  

Once leaving we still had 20 minutes left and Antonio and I ran around the monument exploring.  Back on the bus after meeting up with other people from our group we headed back toward Aswan.  Too short of a time, but worth it in the end.  I slept hard during the three hour ride until we arrived at boat.

I was tired but decided to avoid taking another nap before lunch and instead jumped in the pool to clean off the desert dust.  Lunch was great and afterwards I lazed on the top deck, writing and soaking up the sun.

At 3:00pm we went for our afternoon trip to Egypt's largest dam and a perfume shop.  The dam was kind of funny to see after all of the temples but it was still interesting.  The biggest in all of Africa and maybe the world.  I was becoming better friends with the people in our group.  Our next stop was a perfume shop run by the famous Fayed family.  We were given a glass blowing presentation and perfume smelling exhibition.  I didn't buy anything but it was interesting.  We headed back to the boat.

We had free time before dinner and decided to walk around Aswan without the group.  We did a big loop and then stopped in a bazaar.  We walked once through, checking out the many stalls.  There was a DJ playing and a guy came up and said that he would give us free icecream if we danced.  I'm sure I'm on Al-Jazeerah TV as the entire fair watched us sway back and forth and recorded us with their cell phones.  We did get free ice cream.  Here is the link to the youtube video that Chupi took of our dance: Dancing in Aswan Bazaar.

Leaving the bazaar, we ran into a guy who said he could do the same trip that the group was offering tomorrow for 20 euros to visit the village of the Nubians for 8 euros.  His name was Mohammed and he had a more welcoming demeanor than everyone else we had met.  We told him we'd meet him by the mosque at 9:00 the next morning, deciding to risk not going to the Nubians by trying to save some money.  I didn't think he would actually come, but it was worth a shot.

Back on the boat we had dinner and then went up on the deck to talk and hang out.  I was really tired after two days with practically no sleep and went downstairs to go to bed.

From Edfu to Kom Ombo, Luxor To Aswan, The Nile Cruise Continues

April 1st,

Antonio and I woke up at 6:00am having left our window blinds open letting the morning sun stream into our room.  It was an hour before our wake up call.  We packed our day bags and went up on the roof.  I stayed up on the terrace at one of the glass tables to write until breakfast at 7:00am.  

The food on the boat has been fantastic and I ate my fill of bread, fruit, vegetables and cheese.  

We then quickly boarded the bus, receiving our cards as we left.  We were accosted by lots of kids as we boarded bus trying to sell us little trinkets.  Today we were heading to Edfu Temple, dedicated to the sun god Horus.  We drove through the streets of Aswan before pulling up to the entrance of the incredible complex.  

This temple was the best one I'd yet seen.  The entrance was in the traditional style except the front was guarded by statues of Horus in Falcon form.  The walls were decorated with incredible hieroglyphics.  Tall, intricately carved images of Horus and the other gods.  As we leaned against the stone wall, the courtyard filled to the max with tourists, Amro told us about the importance of proportion and balance in Egyptian culture.  Every characteristic, every feeling has an opposite.  Osiris the good god of the dead was contrasted by the bad god Set.  

We entered the interior of the temple, the best preserved in all of Egypt.  I cannot fully describe it, other than my jaw had dropped and I was flat out blown away.  These temples made Rome look new.  From the floor to ceiling in a dozen or more rooms were exquisite, incredibly detailed hieroglyphics.  I took so many photos and kept wanting to take more.  The ceiling was held up by incredible columns with huge bases.  The tops like papyrus and flowers.  Some hieroglyphics still showed their colors which made me imagine what the temple must have looked like in its original form.  Some of the hieroglyphics had been destroyed or hacked away by the Christians who had rediscovered Edfu temple.

We had an hour to walk around and the time flew by so fast.  I was with Melissa, Jennifer and Veronica.  We took a lot of photos but also explored a lot.  Realizing we were already late for the scheduled time, we ran back to the bus.

Back on the boat it was only 11:00am.  We talked with Amro about doing some of the trips on our own.  The visit to  Abu Simbel would cost 90 euros to go.  Antonio wanted to do it on our own in a taxi.  I was down but wanted to plan it out as Abu Simbel from Aswan was three hours away, almost to the Sudan.  We decided to think it over and make a plan.

I went up onto the deck in my swimsuit talking to the girls and some of the Spaniards from the group.  Absolutely incredible to be looking at the Nile from the boat.  The landscape would change so drastically between lush jungle to harsh desert.  I jumped in the pool before heading downstairs for lunch and returning upstairs to do more of the same.

At 5:00, we made it into Aswan and our boat did an impressive maneuver and turn into its docking point.  The waiter came up with the bell letting us know we had a half an hour before starting our visit to the Kom Ombo Temple.  We got off the boat and were once again accosted by vendors. 

We walked from the dock, past a touristy restaurant and bazaar, before climbing the stairs to the entrance.  A nicely preserved temple, Kom Ombo Temple is famous for its dedication to two gods.  Horus the good and Set the bad.  The Falcon and Crocodile.  It was incredibly lit up at night, with flood lights illuminating the hieroglyphics.

After our quick tour, we had time to wander around.  The crescent moon and view of the coast made the temple feel even more surreal.  Antonio was recording more footage for our video and I walked around with the girls and Chupi.  We had to be back on the boat by 7:45 and headed back in that direction.  The young boy who works on the boat was waiting for us (I think Amro had sent him to find us so we wouldn't be late) and help guide us through the bazaar.  We were still accosted and I ended up buying some cheap little necklaces sold to me by a five year old kid.  I know he won't get to keep that money, but I wouldn't want to be selling that at 5 nor see any other kid selling it.  Brought into a world only to be taken advantage of.  Jennifer played clapping games with one of the little girls, the other kids looking on, before we went back on the boat.  

Dinner was fantastic.  I knew I would miss the time here on the boat.  Down in our rooms, Antonio and I found that one of the laundry guys had made our towels into swans and created a "mummy" with our clothes, pillows and towels.  Whether they like us or not, we've certainly met everyone on the boat.  We began talking to him and he showed us the worker's rooms and limited living quarters.  I'm still trying to wrap my head around the wealth discrepancy and trying to some how justify it, when I can not. 

After hanging out in Chupi's room, we went back upstairs as we had been told that there would be a dance party with the whole group.  As Antonio had said "la fiesta empieza cuando llegamos," we got everyone to come into the disco and started a crazy party.  We did the Macarena and danced with the workers.  We had a conga line going and I alternated from talking briefly to people to helping get them on the dance floor.  The workers then had us do "traditional" games that involved us wearing a string with a potato attached trying to knock another potato by rocking our legs.  It was hilarious to watch.  I failed miserably.  I spoke with a cool couple from Estonia in English (our group may be all Spaniards but there are other people on the boat). 

Everyone became tired and left, except us.  Melissa and I salsa-ed while Jennifer and Antonio went swimming.  We all went back down to our rooms after heeding the call of the boat manager.  

At 12:00 we left the boat to begin a ridiculous hour of trying to search for a taxi to Abu Simbell, the un-missable excursion to take place at 3:15 am.  With the group we'd pay 90 euros each.  None of us wanted to pay that price and in the two hours before we had to tell Amro if we were going with him or not, we left the boat to see what we could do.

7000 Years Of Human History In 7 Hours

March 31st,

The wake up call was at 5:00am and it rang twice before I answered it.  We quickly got up and organized our day bags.  We went upstairs for a fantastic breakfast.  Lots of fruit, cheese and vegetables.  

Before meeting up with the group, Antonio and I ran upstairs to the top deck to view the Nile.  A stunning morning view.  The green coast and the sky filled with different colored hot air balloons.  We were late to the bus  as we ran to catch up with the group.

The bus took us through Luxor, the restaurant signs in English and Arabic.  

Today we were heading to 4 historic spots: Karnak Temple, Luxor Temple, The Valley of the Kings and Al-Deir, Al-Bahari Temple.

Pulling into the parking lot of the Karnak temple, I knew I had traveled to a different world.  A long stone road, led to the perfectly symmetrical walls that guarded the entrance to the temple of the Sun God.  On either side of the road were hundreds of statues of goat-lions, the animal of Ra.  The oldest temple in Egypt it is around 6,000 years old.  Promising to let us have picture time after his explanation of the history, Amro told us about the temple.  I missed some of the description in Spanish, but remembered two main points.  First the walking stance of the Egyptian statues symbolizes the military march, the current of the Nile and/or the link to the heart.  In the hieroglyphics a sun over a duck means the birthday of the King.

We walked all the way to the end of the once spanning complex.  Absolutely incredible.  We saw the two tall obelisks and a statue of a scarab that we walked around 7 times for  good luck.  Although looking pretty ridiculous in my white shirt and fedora, I was glad to have it as the sun came up fast and beat down on us.  To think that 4 months ago I was wading through 3 feet of snow in Poland is ridiculous.  Now basking on the banks of the Nile and exploring Egyptian ruins.  What a year!  We took a lot of photos, so many that I went against my normal rule and dropped my photos down to six mega pixels as I won't have enough.  I'd almost taken 200 photos by the end of the first day.

I foolishly hadn't brought any water and was getting really dehydrated.  I loved examining all of the hieroglyphic, incredible in their detail.  I made a last glance back at the temple before boarding the bus. 

We drove through the streets of Luxor, across town to the spanning sight of  the temple of Luxor.  The temple had the traditional symmetrical walls and central obelisk, but was made even more incredible by the hundreds of columns that made the temple proportionally equal. 

We walked through the temple admiring the platforms and huge stone walls.  In the back passage way, we were shown the "first porno," a hieroglyphics scene depicting the artificial insemination of the Sun God Horus to the Goddess of the Nile.

The hieroglyphics were truly incredible and I tried my best to remember sixth grade history.  Our guide gave us free time and we were allowed to wander around.  We were immediately accosted by men in traditional dress, wanting us to pay them for a picture.  One guy even had Melissa and me do a "ceremony," in which I touched the hieroglyphics and then Melissa.  We apparently married.

We had to head back to the bus, the last ones to arrive yet again.  The included day had ended and now began our additional paid for journey.  We drove a little farther out through the desert.  Winding through the sand dunes, we were heading to the Valley of the Kings.  in our cruise ship and bus we were living in a bubble, but Antonio and I saw the "real Egypt," the life of the poor people as we drove through the streets.  

We pulled into a central visitor's center and then boarded a tram to the entrance of the tombs.  The Valley of the Kings had been discovered in the early 1920's and was a spanning series of canyons hiding the ceremonial tombs of the Pharaohs.  We only had admittance to three tombs and had the ability to choose.  

The first tomb we went into was for Ramses VII, and entering it, I saw incredible hieroglyphics. Although slightly worn, I could see the once vivid colors giving life to the drawings.  What I remember about this tomb was the long hallway, open room and next hall way with the actual sarcophagus.  Melissa and I walked around trying to soak it all in.  Coming back out, I stood alone for a minute, breathing in deeply through my nose, while looking at the two pictures, one a god with wings and the other a scarab.  I walked back out, putting on my hat as I exited the tomb.

Our next tomb really felt like an adventure movie, as we had to climb these huge stairs supported by the rock and then climb deep underground.  This tomb was particularly hot, like a sauna, and I was pretty sure the one guard in the central room was going to pass out from the heat.  Also beautifully decorated.  I tried to imagine what it would have been like to discover this place, especially this one as there were booby traps. 

Our last tomb was a large hallway with a huge interior burial room.  We stood at the back looking up at the entrance.  We didn't have much time and had paid a lot for what would have been cheap to do on our won.  Still, I was so happy to have seen it.  

The last stop of the morning was the Al-Deir, Al Bahari Temple, an incredible 3 story monument with large sloping ramps built into the center of the mountain.  We walked to the top floor and our guide explained everything before telling us to meet back in 45 minutes.  We explored and took pictures.  Admiring the clear difference between the hot desert sand and the green valley where there was water, I explored the top area.  It seemed like a lot of time for not that big of a place.  I took my time walking down and met up with the girls at the snack shop where they were being proposed to and offered many camels by the workers.  As we boarded the tram, we learned that there was another level and temple that we had missed.  I didn't want to miss it, so I jumped out and ran all the way back up to the top, snapped a ton of fast pictures of the colored hieroglyphics and then ran all the way back to the bus.

We stopped along the side of the road to see the Colossus of Memnon.  Two twin Statues of sitting figures.  We took photos before heading back to the cruise ship.

We were welcomed on board by the crew with hot tea and clean towels to wash our hands and face.  We then had a much needed lunch and drinks.

An excerpt from my journal about eating lunch on the ship:

Dining on the cruise ship is an eye opening experience in the world we live in today.  Our waiter, Hussein is always waiting on us.  Its an open buffet and the crew is constantly cooking and preparing for the next meal.  The table is set with three sets of silverware.  From our window we have incredible views of the Nile as our motonave glides without rocking over the surface.  The view from the window is a constantly moving postcard of palm groves, sandy banks and flocks of white egrets.  As I eat my copious amounts of food, viewing this paradise, I have the lifestyle that I support and demand.  This is my fist experience on a cruise and I have to say I really like it.  But when I look past the natural beauty and put down my fork, I see that salient juxtaposition, that dilemma of equality that I choose to ignore.  On the banks of the river are crumbling houses, starving children.  On the Nile are small boats that rock violently in our wake.  When I leave the boat I am accosted by people trying to sell me trinkets.  I brush them away like the sweat flies and climb aboard my air-conditioned bubble of the bus.  This is privilege, capitalism, equality, irony.  The more I travel, the more I'm confused by the world, and the more it seems to all come together.

After lunch, we went up onto the roof to swim. I took advantage of the free time to write while looking at the incredible landscape from the bow of the boat.  For the rest of the afternoon we would be cruising on the Nile to our next destination.

4:00pm was tea time and we went down to the covered deck for some tea and cake.  The life.  A massage guy came around and Antonio volunteered me.  I went downstairs to the massage room and truly lived up the cruise experience.  

At 5:00pm we had our orientation about the rest of the trip.  Amro explained all of the additional trips and their prices.  We were told our hotel rooms to be in Cairo (we're actually in Giza, on the other side of the Nile).  The prices were high and we wanted to talk to him later about doing stuff on our own.  The meeting went an hour too long as people kept asking stupid questions.  We talked to Amro, who told us to talk to him tomorrow.

We hung out in Chupi's room before coming back upstairs to salsa on the dance floor.  Outside was a crazy scene as little rowboats selling touristy stuff latched onto the boat and tried to sell things to us.  They would throw the packages of clothes up into the air and expect us to throw money back down to them.  Crazy.  After dancing, we went upstairs to swim.  We wanted to stay up until 2:00 to see the boat pass through the gates so we went downstairs to shower and get ready for bed before coming up at 1:45.  We went right up to one gate and completely stopped as we waited for more water to be put in.  Once the level was sufficient enough, the boat was allowed to pass through.

Now in the second part of our cruise down the Nile, I went to bed, ready for the next day.

8 Days In Egypt, Or The Best Trip Of The Year!

March 30th,

And the next adventure begins...

The wake up call to our room woke us up at 7:00am.  We quickly got ready, having showered and packed our bags the night before.  We left our great hotel and headed toward the metro.  I had on my big green backpack and was carrying my mom's suitcase.  Having used the Barcelona public transportation the whole week, we did a great job navigating the hour ride to the airport, taking the Blue line to Sants Barcelona and then train platform 9 to the airport.  In el Prat we sat in a cafe and I talked with my mom about what I'd learned this year and what I want to do.  I love her a lot.  My mom's flight was delayed two hours, so I had some extra time with her.  At 10:50 we headed to my check in gate and met up with Antonio and Franciso, aka "Chupi."  I gave my my mom a big hug and kiss on the cheek.  I will see her again in 4 months.  A long time, but we got through 7 without seeing each other.  She got in line to show her boarding pass and go through security.  I ran over to her to say goodbye one more time before she went up the escalator and back home to LA.

And as she left, I was once again on my year abroad. Alone and independent.  I got in line with Antonio and Chupi and we immediately began to joke around.  We were in a huge line of people also waiting to go to Egypt.  Judging by the bald heads, wedding rings and nice clothes we were definitely going to be the youngest ones on the trip.  We called the girls who were on their way and began our documentary video that Antonio is planning on keeping throughout the trip.  The girls came and we moved up in the line.  Melissa, Veronica and Jennifer look like they will be a lot of fun to travel with.  Initially a little nervous to be the connecting person between two distinct groups of people, I didn't need to worry as the group hit it off well right from the start.

We went up to the ticket desk and had to wait an extra minute as Antonio and Jennifer went to get our actual tickets from Halcón viajes.  The rest of the process went fast as we checked in our stuff, went through security and stopped in duty free for supplies.  We then almost immediately boarded a bus that took us directly to our "private plane" (a plane dedicated solely for our tour group).  The difference of going through a travel agent and organized group.  It was raining as I stepped inside the aircraft and gave a last look to Barcelona.

Our flight went really well and we were actually fed.  This trip to Egypt should be incredible.  4 nights on a cruise on the Nile from Luxor to Aswan stopping to tour all of the famous monuments along the way, then 3 nights in Cairo to tour the pyramids and explore the city.

Landing in Egypt was how I thought it should be.  Palm trees and rolling sand dunes.  Flying in, we had seen the blue Nile cut a fertile swath through the desert, the cradle of civilization.  The difference of traveling with an organized group was salient, as they ushered us into a bus which took us into the airport.  Dozens of men with placards held high beckoned to the groups.  We found our guy and got in line.  My visa price had been included in the trip fee and I received a cool Egyptian sticker and stamp in my passport.  We then quickly exited, boarding the buses and saying "No" to the many men trying to collect tips by helping to carry the luggage.  

Our group was the last to get off as we stopped at two cruise ships before ours.  Disembarking we walked through the main rooms of the 4 boats, the first being incredibly furnished, with its own jewelry store and bazaar.  Our boat, the least fancy was no slouch, as we had 4 levels, a cafeteria, hangout room with bar and dance floor and two terraces.  Our rooms were in the lowest level, almost next to the motors and right at the level of the river.  Antonio and I joked that we would be the first to die and hoped we could swim to the shore of the Nile before the boat sank.

Entering our rooms we saw that there were only two beds, Antonio and I quickly jumped on them leaving Chupi without one.  We went upstairs to ask and Chupi and Melissa were each given their own rooms.  Very comfortable.  As it turned out, the boat wasn't that crowded, so we ended up having the entire bottom floor to ourselves!  We got settled into our rooms, establishing Chupi's as the minibar for our "illegal" drinks.  It might have been "everything included," but there is always a catch, the big one being that all drinks, including bottled water had to be purchased on the ship.  The ship knew that you would have to buy it, because we couldn't drink the water unless we wanted some case of Montazuma's Egyptian Style Revenge.  Before dinner, we went back off the boat to the little tourist shops in Luxor and bought some water and refreshments, sneaking them back onto the ship.

We headed upstairs to the dining hall after hearing the bell rung by one of the crew members.  The dinner was fantastic!  We were introduced to Hussein, who would be our waiter for the next four days.  We basically had our own table, and were joined by a late 30's something, fit man from Bilbao named Agustin.  The food was delicious and I ate way too much.  

After dinner, we had a brief group orientation.  We met our guide, Amro, who spoke great Spanish (or at least it sounded great to me).  He told us about the plan for tomorrow, visits to Karnak and Luxor temples and for 65 euros more, the visit to the Valley of the Kings and Al Deir Al Bahari Temple.  Most trips were included in a set price we had paid, but some excursions had an additional price.  I really wanted to see the Valley of the Kings so I signed up despite the extra price.  They briefly turned on random Spanish country, music and I danced Salsa with Jennifer.  We then decided to take a night swim, and went downstairs to change into our swimsuits. 

The only ones foolish enough to be up, as we would be starting tomorrow at 5:00am, we decided to maximize our time on the Nile.  We had a private deck and I loved looking out at the lights on the banks, hearing the night sounds and smelling that distinct third world country smell.  Antonio and I jumped in, the water really quite cold.  I quickly got out, until Melissa and Veronica jumped in and said it was warm.  Chicas.  I jumped in again, swam around and got out once I was too cold.  The night air was perfect and I quickly dried off.  We sat in a circle of whisk chairs in our yellow and white towels.  The moon and lights cast a radiant glow on the faces.  We hung out on the roof until 12:30 before heading downstairs.

After a quick shower and climbing into bed, Antonio and I talked about the day, laughing and joking.  I was really happy to be traveling with my roommate and the rest of the people in the group.  I was so fortunate and blessed to have an opportunity like this.  I fell quickly asleep, ready for the next adventure.

Some Pictures From My Mom's Trip to Spain

Photos from my mom's trip to Spain.

One More Day In Barcelona

March 29th,

We woke up at 6:30, having not slept too great.  It seemed all of Granada was outside on the street.  We quickly organized the room, and I went out into the kitchen to set up breakfast.  My mom had become pretty sick.  We had some tea before leaving.

It was raining as we went to the bus station.  I realized I'd forgotten the flight itinerary and wasn't sure if I'd need it, so after having my mom wait at the bus stop, I ran back to my room to get it.

The bus came on time and we boarded, making it to the airport in a little over 45 minutes.  We checked in and didn't have to wait too long.  

The flight went really well and I was much more impressed with Vueling today than last Monday.  From El Prat, we caught the train to Barca Sant which linked us to the metro.  Although still a little unsure of ourselves, we managed everything really easily and without any mishaps.  Out of the metro, we quickly found our hotel and checked in.  

Our room was even nicer than the one we had had last week.  On the 6th floor, we had a wrap around balcony with a legitimate ocean view. 

We had no set plans today, my mom's last day in Spain.  We did have one mission though, find the little souvenir for my brother that we hadn't been able to find anywhere else.  We weren't sure it was going to be there, but decided to try anyway, heading down to the park by La Sagrada Familia.  We were lucky as they had the little guadí style bull that we bought for Hunter.  With that task accomplished, I still wanted to take the cable car from Montjüic to the beach and we decided to test our luck to see if it would be operating.  I was almost certain that it would be closed considering the weather was bad and it hadn't been operating last week, but when we arrived at cable car after taking the metro to Montjüic, it was running!

The ticket guy wouldn't sell us a roundtrip ticket and the second leg was closed, but we went on it anyway, wedged in with all of the other tourists.  We rode the suspended line between Montjüic and the first platform tower.  It was less bumpy then I would have thought and provided great views of the city.  On the platform tower we took some pictures and looked out at the city; its toes in the Mediterranean and its head in the mountains.  Las Ramblas stood out by its solitary three lined route, cutting a swath of color through the gray city.  We took the elevator down to the street, walking past a huge installment of rings and circles.

Walking past the statue of Columbus, we turned to head back up Las Ramblas.  We cut into the Gothic Quarter and spent a lot of time wandering around.  We tried going to the Natural History Museum of Catalonia but it was closed.  Instead we went next door to the Catalonian archives where we saw a great exhibit about King James I of Catalonia.  The exhibit had all of the 800 year old documents, treaties, religious statues, on display in glass cases with a blurb describing each one.  Very interesting and cool to see such historic documents in their original form.  My favorite was a document in Hebrew describing a business deal between two friends.

We then cut back to las Ramblas and spent a lot more time wandering around, not afraid to explore and find new things.  We saw some great street performers along las Ramblas and Plaza Catalonia.  After 4 hours or more, we decided to catch the metro back to the hotel.

After an hour siesta, we got ready for dinner.  We decided to stay close to the hotel and went to "Tapas Guadí," on Avenue Guadí on the way to Sagrada Familia.  It was good but a little overpriced.  After dinner we walked back to the hotel, stopping to admire Hospital Sant Pau.  I took a hot shower and got ready for bed, knowing that I should rest as I would be beginning my next adventure tomorrow.

The days with my mom had flown by so fast.  I love her so much and am very happy that she came and visited me.  I miss her and the rest of my family a lot but I know I only have a few more months of this incredible year and will be home soon.

In Between The Rain And BBQ's Its All About The Image

March 28th, 

We didn't have any large plans for my mom's last day in Granada.  I spent part of the morning working on my application for the "Loft Student Manager," position that I would like to do next year at UCSD.  I would be working for ArtPower! as the liaison between students and staff, planner of the performing arts events and manager of the new social space, the Loft.  I would have to do a lot of coordinating with my RA commitment as they both would require significant amounts of time.

Heiko and Nathalie woke up and we decided that we would have an "international dinner," tonight and would go grocery shopping.  The nice weather that we had had all week turned bad as outside it was raining and chilly.  We spent an hour at Mercadona buying all of the necessary, mixed ingredients.  Heiko decided  he would cook some fish and bought two fresh dorados.  My mom would make a vegetable dish.  We came back and unpacked everything.

My mom had to mail a postcard and then wanted to head up to the Alhambra.  The post office was closed, so we continued up the hill to the Alhambra stopping along the way to look at the shops.  I saw a straw hat and a plain white shirt that I thought would make the perfect outfit for Egypt.  We decided to buy it on the way back down.

Walking up through the Alhambra woods was gorgeous.  Cool, green and with the ambient sound of running water.  We walked back up to the fountain to take pictures.  After checking out the photo exhibit, we cut across the street to Carmen de los Martires.  By now the weather had cleared up, almost hot.  The gardens were beautiful.  The wisteria in bloom.  I was hoping to find the peacocks that roam the grounds and was lucky enough to run into a whole covey.  The hens were on the balcony while the cock walked around, almost fanning his tail.

Stopping in the stores on the way back, I bought my white t-shirt and straw hat.  I would have my "look," for my trip to Egypt.

Back home, Heiko and Nathalie were in the kitchen.  Heiko had filled the fish with onions, garlic, tomatoes and cilantro.  He would grill them whole in the foil wrapping.  

Although intended to be ready at 5, our dinner went on for the next 4 hours as we got everything ready and found that we were out of charcoal.  This required Antonio, who had just come back from Sevilla with a new bike, and me to walk halfway across Granada to Hipercore, the seemingly only store in Granada to have charcoal.  It was raining hard as we hurried back.

Back home, I realized I'd bought the wrong kind as I'd bought charcoal for a gas grill.  Jonathan Garvey had come over to and between him, Heiko and me we were able to get the grill going despite the incorrect fuel source and pouring rain.  Our dinner turned out to be good but in stages as we ate my mom's cut up vegetables (the difference between Spain and the US clearly defined by Antonio's adding of salt and olive oil to all of the raw vegetables) and then some great grilled cheese and garlic.  We eventually got to Heiko's fish which was really good as well.  It was nice talking to my roommates and I think everyone had a good time.

After a Minnesota goodbye with Jon, my mom, Heiko and I walked over to Plaza Bim-Rambla for one more ice cream.  We walked around the Cathedral and then back home.  

My mom and I quickly finished packing.  I loaded up my green backpack for what I would need in Egypt.  Having lost an hour of sleep because of daylight savings time, I went to bed at 1:00am.

Spring Time In Sevilla And Back To Granada

March 27th,

We didn't set an alarm but woke up a little before nine.  After leaving our bags in the luggage check, we left the hotel to explore the city.

Despite my best intentions of not getting us lost, I did, and had to pull out the map a  lot to reorient ourselves.  Eventually we made it back to the main area and headed to the Alcazar.  We rented an audio guide which we shared and wandered around the palace.  I had not realized before that the Alcazar was built by a Christian king in the Muslim design just because he liked how it looked.  Very avante garde for its time with its mudejar, style.

My favorite part was the extensive outdoor garden that I had been unable to see my last visit due to the weather.  This time the weather was perfect and we walked along the well manicured paths, exploring the grotto, baths and castle walls.  All of Sevilla smelled like oranges as the blossoms were in bloom.  We had a picnic by one of the ponds with a bubbling fountain.

After spending 2 hours in the Alcazar we went to the Cathedral and Giralda.  We immediately climbed the watch tower, which was full of visitors.  At the top, we were afforded spectacular views of the city, spread out below.  Back down in the Cathedral, we spent a lot of time wandering the side alcoves and treasure rooms.  I hadn't seen them before.

Having seen the main tourist sights, we continued our on the move lunches by buying some bocadillos from a tavern which we then ate in the Plaza Nueva.  Sevilla was gearing up for Semana Santa as there were many advertisements spread throughout the city.  We continued our "ice cream tour of Spain," stopping for more gelato on the way back to the hotel to pick up our bags.

We explored the park on the other side of the bus station before boarding the bus back to Granada.  The bus ride was pleasant and we made it back to Granada around 8:00pm.  

Heiko was waiting on the staircase in front of the door in his ski gear, having left his keys in the locker on the mountain.  We unpacked and had a low key evening.  I made dinner of chicken breast, raviolis and fresh sauce.  One of the two recipes that I've perfected.  I loaded up the photos that we had taken so far from the trip before saying goodnight to my mom and heading into the living room to catch up on some writing. 

On The Outskirts Of Córdoba And The Real Sevilla

March 26th,

Up early to catch our 9:00am bus, we had a quick breakfast and then caught the 33 to the bus station.  The bus from Granada to Córdoba was direct and not too crowded.  I was glad that my Mom would be able to see some other cities.  

Pulling into the Córdoba station around 11:30, we caught bus number "3" in front of the station and took it to San Fernando.  We walked from there toward the mosque, soaking in the seemingly summer heat and wafting the smells of spring.  After a slight detour, we came to the mosque.  We were carrying our overnight bags which were a little heavy, but we managed.  A little funny to already be nostalgic about things in the recent past, but walking around Córdoba, my second time in the city, I kept remembering my first roadtrip with my roommates and our other friends.  I was happy to be touring it with my mom as I was adding more good memories to the city.

We paid admission and toured the mosque, truly spectacular.  I love the red and white double layered arches.  We spent a long time there, before deciding to leave to find the Jewish quarter and synagogue.  I was getting hungry and something weird was happening to my eye. I was getting blurry vision and a strong headache and was in a lot of pain.  Really weird.  I was not being fun to travel with.  We found the synagogue and paid 30 cents to enter as we weren't UE citizens.  I love the little synagogue and Córdoba's cross cultural heritage.  

Doubling back to an open air restaurant we had passed, we stopped for a much needed lunch.  I had a chicken paella that was quite good.  After lunch, I was feeling a little better and we went to the cute Jewish Museum that I hadn't been to the last time.  A converted house, it was filled with artifacts from Jewish Spain.  Outside I wanted to find Plaza Porto as I thought it was slightly more touristy area that I'd eaten at before for gelatto.  I was really confused.  After leading us in the completely wrong direction, we wandered the next hour or more pretty lost.  At least we saw a lot of the city.  Eventually we found the Plaza who's name I'd been saying, although it was different than the one I'd thought.  We stopped in a café/icecream/internet place that was open across the street and I printed out our reservations for the hotel.  We waited at the bus stop while eating our ice cream, making it easily back to the bus station.

We looked at a street art display exhibit before boarding boarding the bus to Sevilla.  The bus stopped in a few little towns, the one called Carmona looking really cool.  Pulling into Sevilla around 7:30 we were ready to tour our second city.

Earlier, I had called the hotel to see how we could get there from the bus station.  Nevertheless, at probably my worst at directions I've been this entire year, I led us completely in the wrong direction.  I was really good at getting us lost, not finding where we needed to go.  I was almost ready to hail a cab, when I caught a sign to the Cathedral and after many questions for directions and wandering, we eventually found our hotel.  

 We went upstairs to drop off our stuff and settle into the room.  Dark interior, flat screen and a shower that looked like a hallway the 4 star hotel was really nice.

And so started the night part two. We went to find a restaurant but ended up having a dinner of champions meal at a "feiriría," fryery," instead.  My mother would never let me eat something like this!  We got fried squid and shrimp that were so bad and good at the same time.  We topped it off with more gelato, throwing in a piece of fruit to balance it all out.  We then walked down by the gardens, river and cut back by the Cathedral and Giralda beautifully lit up at night.  Sevilla was hopping as everyone was out.  

In the city where it was born, we wanted to see flamenco.  My lonely planet paid for itself as we went to "La Carbonería," a local flamenco bar that it recommended and actually turned out to be right next to our hotel.  An incredible venue of a converted building and two adjoining bars, the main internal courtyard had chairs and tables set up facing a stage under a canopy.  Although still filled with tourists and obnoxious Americans, the music was incredible and the feeling real.  The first group was traditional flamenco with a singer, guitarist and female dancer.  Really great.  We met a good guy from Texas and drank a pitcher of tinto de verano while enjoying the scene.  

We were ready to go when the group finished their set, but ended up staying another hour.  As we left the main patio we stumbled into another open room with a male singer and guitarist.  The singer truly feeling the music and the guitarist superb.  Initially in the back, we were eventually able to get seats in the front.  Haunting and inclusive, this was the best and most real flamenco I'd ever heard. 

At one point the singer needed a break and asked his friend, an older man from Huelva to sing a few songs.  The man was another perfect image.  He had four teeth on top and four on the bottom. He took a "wee bit of courage," from his beer and then sat down in his jaguar, hounds' tooth print, hat, dress shirt and boat shoes.  He then belted out the most incredible Flamenco.  Extremely powerful, impressive and moving.  We stayed until the end in which he finished with a traditional Sevillana song.  Blown away, we walked the 100 yards back to our hotel and quickly fell asleep.

Hiking In Monachil And Tapas For All

March 25th,

I woke up at 8:00, showered and got ready for class talking to my mom before I left.  

I was glad I'd gone to class as Relaciones Internacionales was really interesting.  War and conflict.  Professor Sanchez is officially our new teacher as our original professor gave birth the day before.  I'll have to write about an international conflict for an upcoming project.

In Historia Politíca Social Contemporánea, I turned in my paper and enjoyed the lecture although it was very confusing.  Spanish politics of the early 20th century.  I literally ran home and saw my mom waiting for me on the balcony.

I quickly changed, dropped off of my stuff and picked up some picnic supplies as we left the piso and headed toward the bus stop to Monachil.  Down by the river, we stopped in the public library and then waited for the bus.  While waiting I talked to a social old man named "José Salinas," who told me about his time visiting California in the 60's.  Fun conversation.  We boarded the bus at 1:15 and took it the 30 minutes to Monachil pueblo to hike the "Cahorros," trail.  Trying to remember back from September, the last time I'd been there, we wandered through the town, eventually making it to the trail head after about a half-hour walk.  

The day was hot but it was nice to get out of the city.  I think my mom really liked the hanging bridges and hand hold leans over the rushing river.  We had a picnic of a pear at the start of the national forest, leaning against the wall in the shade.  We then climbed the exposed hill that eventually wound its way back to the town, not after cutting through miles of olive groves and farms being led by a black lab.  In the town my mom wanted to see goats and we were soon greeted by one of the most picture perfect moments I've had here in Spain.  Coming up the cobblestone street in the white washed village, a small, old shepherd with a jaguar hat, white collard shirt, khakis, cane and red eyes sunk into a leathered face, led a herd of goats that made noise and shined in the heat.  I snapped a picture as they turned up the street. 

Our "up hill both ways hike," ended well as we caught the 5:45 bus back to Granada just in time.  Back in Granada before stopping home, we walked up to Los Italianos for some ice cream that was good but not as good as the day before (such a difficult life we have here in Granada!).  We then stopped in the camera store.  I really wanted an SLR, but knew it would be foolish to get one here in Spain.  I bought another point and shoot.  A nice, 10 megapixel Canon.  In some ways better others worst than my old camera, it will be a good. I'll get to practice with it a little before Egypt. 

Back in my room the music of an accordion player listed lazily up to my window.  I'd been calling my friend Mónica for names of restaurants where my mom could take my roommates and me out for dinner, but in the end we decided to go for tapas instead.  

At 8:30, we all left the apartment, my mom and roommates, including Alberto, and went for a true Granada style tapas outting.  It was a lot of fun.  We stopped at 4 separate spots.  One new one on Calle Navas that was just ok, and then our well established favorites of La Pajuana and Los Diamantes and a new great one, Oklahim, for Egyptian food that I'll have to come back to again.  My mom talked with all of my roommates.  Alberto actually speaks fairly good English.  It took 7 months and my mom to come to Spain before we got a picture of all 5 of us together.  Outside on the street people were practicing for Semana Santa and inside los Diamantes there was a big bachelor party.  Little kids came with their parents to the bars at 11:00 at night.  Such is Granada.  Such is Spain.

My mom paid for all of the tapas and we headed back to the apartment a little after 11:00.  The bachelor party people had moved to our street and were running around.  Crazy.  Back home, we decided we wanted to go to Códoba and Sevilla for the next two days.  I booked three separate buses, Granada-Córdoba, Córdoba-Sevilla, Sevilla-Granada.  We'd spend all day in Córdoba, catch a bus that afternoon to Sevilla, spend then night and then come back to Granada the next day.  We slept fast as it would be another early day.

 

A Day In The Life

March 24th,

We woke up at 8:00am and while my mom was getting ready and showering, I went into the kitchen to make breakfast.  I put together a complete meal of cereal, yogurt, fruit, juice and tea.  It was a little cold and grey and I hoped it wouldn't rain.  

With our "Palacio of the Nazaries," ticket schedule for 9:30am, we power walked all the way up the hill to the Alhambra from my apartment.  After withdrawing our tickets from the machine, we entered the Alhambra grounds and waited in line to enter the palace.  Good thing we had worn our scarves as it was kind of chilly.

At 9:30 we were let in and having skipped the audio guide, decided to wander at our own pace and soak in all of the detail.  I love the Alhambra and see more and more subtleties each time I go.  Really magnificent.  Its incredible that I live so close to it. My mom really enjoyed it.  We took a lot of pictures and marveled at the patios and fountains.  Things were going great until we got to the passage way coming out of Washington Irving's room.  Stepping back to get a better picture of my mom, I tripped over one of the water bowls on the ground, and my camera, despite being around my wrist, flew off and crashed on the stairs.  Broken.  I was really sad and disappointed as I really liked that camera and had only had it for a little over a year.  I'd taken such good care of it and for such a freak accident to destroy it was both ridiculous and ironic.

Not letting the camera accident hamper our day, we finished touring the palace and then spent the next 2 hours touring the "Torre Vela," watch tower of the Alcazaba, military fort, and enjoying the exquisite, flower filled gardens of the Generalife.  My third time at the Alhambra, I was still entering new rooms and seeing new places.  We bought some great gifts at the shops before heading down the hill around 1:00pm.  

I took my mom "local shopping," stopping at Mercado Central for chicken and fresh cheese from the Sierra Nevada.  After stopping at a bread and fruit store, we went back home for a "local lunch," of open faced bocadillos.  

After lunch we walked around looking for a new camera and exploring the city.  We stopped at an ice cream place right by my house for some fantastic gelato.  We walked down to the river and back to my piso so I could get ready for my 5:30 class.  I didn't really want to go to school when my mom was here, but I knew I needed to go as I wouldn't be there all of next week.  

In Teoría del Estado we had a computer presentation by the librarians, explaining how to use the Spanish online databases to look for documents.  As soon as class ended, I headed back to my apartment to change into my salsa clothes.

I had asked my teacher last week if I could bring my mom when she was here.  We walked back the way I had just came to the campus of Fuente Nueva.  My mom ended up not dancing, but still had a good time watching and taking pictures.

Earlier in the week I'd been invited to a dinner with my UC friends at Debby and Alexis' house.  My mom had been invited too.  After salsa, we walked to Plaza de Toros.  Although slightly awkward to bring my mom to a college party and drinking together, everyone had fun.  I was glad to introduce my mom to many of the people I'd been traveling with this year.  Alexis made some excellent cuban-style chicken and rice.  Rachel made brownies from a Ghiradeli mix sent from the US.  We left at 12:30am.

Back home, I was still deciding whether I should go to class or not the next day.  In the end I decided I should and spent the next 3 hours, finishing up an essay about the "Berlin Conference," discussing the division of Africa for Historia Política Social Contemporánea.  I went to bed at 3:30am.

A Week In Andalucía Begins In Granada

March 23rd,

We woke up at 9:30 and had packed up and checked out by 10:00am.  Having a few hours before our flight, we decided to "aprovechar," and go to La Pedrera.

I overshot our metro stop and we went to buy some bread to hold us over until lunch time.  We took the metro to Passeig de Gracia and quickly walked up the few blocks.  The line looked deceivingly big as we didn't have to wait too long.  We ran into our Italian friends from the day before. 

Inside the house we got the highlight version of the guided tour and quickly ran up to the famous roof.  Absolutely Incredible!  Crazy sculptures and shapes that looked like knights or chessmen lined the pathways connected by steps.  The roof was packed with school groups.  I loved walking around and wanted my future house to look like this.

The rest of the house was really cool although not as sublime as Casa Balló.  I enjoyed the many arches, like vertebrae of a spine that supported the attic.  We semi-rushed our visit and left to catch the metro.  We took the metro to Sagrada Familia to look for a souvenir we'd seen the other day for Hunter, which wasn't there, and then went up the hill, stopping only to grab a quick bocadillo before returning to the hotel to pick up our bags and then heading to the airport.  

Having figured out the public transportation, we quickly made it to the airport.  It took us a while to find the Vueling checkin.  We arrived early to the airport only to have our flight delayed.  While waiting, Guardía Civil detained a drunk guy who was trying to get on the plane.  After an hour delay we boarded and while sitting down, the drunk man ran onto the plane, celebrated to sporadic applause and then was escorted off the aircraft.  We talked to an interesting Spanish veterinarian on the way over.  I fell asleep and woke up as we touched down in Granada.

Thankfully our baggage came through and we took the bus back to my apartment.  My mom seemed a little overwhelmed by the city as we walked to the my apartment from the bus stop.  I knew it'd had been risky to leave my door open while I was gone for the weekend, and was right as my roommates had played a prank on me by leaving empty packs of cigarettes,  cans of beer, lines of "cocaine," (salt) and the ID card of a Spanish girl.  I quickly moved everything off my desk and through it outside onto Heiko's balcony.  Heiko had made my bed for me, which was very nice.  I showed my mom the apartment and introduced her to Heiko and Alberto.  We then immediately left as I wanted to see if we could make it to the Mirador of San Nicolas in time to see the sun set.

We took one of the microbuses up, which worked well, and although we missed the sunset, my mom was able to get a feel for Granada.  "Like living in an amusement park," she would say.  I wanted to take her to Flamenco but wasn't sure what time it started.  We headed through the warren of the Albaycín until we got to the street of the teterías.  We looked at the Arab stores and then headed to Gran Vía where we went to the tapas bar that specializes in wine.  We then checked the flamenco show times which didn't start until 10:30.  We came back to my apartment to regroup.  My mom met Antonio and we had a little time to get settled in before heading back up to the Upsetter flamenco bar.

Finding seats in the front of the little, underground, smoky room we waited for the show to start.  I had seen part of the trio before at the two previous shows I 'd been to here.  They started playing, the old man belting out the emotional lyrics, the guitarist playing the classic Spanish style progressions and the dancer, powerful and alluring, spinning and stomping.  They took too long of a intermission.  The second half was good though.

Back in my apartment, I introduced my mom to Nathalie and then set up the extra mattress in my room.  I stayed up to do some reading before going to sleep.

Here's To You From Barcelona

March 22nd,

I woke up at 8:30 and we quickly got ready for the day.  Today we would be visiting the Gothic Quarter.  After purchasing some more bread and cheese and sharing a large bottle of water split into our two small plastic cups, we took the metro down to the Gothic Quarter.  We explored the Cathedral which was free on Sundays.  Outside in the plaza was a large group of people dressed in uniforms with red sashes.

They were milling around the square, operating and decorating a dozen or so large puppets.  The puppets had a little window in which the "driver" could look out.  We asked and were told that there was going to be a parade along Las Ramblas, celebrating the day of this particular saint of the barrio for their spring festival.  We decided to take a walk around the Gothic Quarter before coming back to see the parade.  

We wandered through the gothic quarter, admiring the architecture and stopping in the little shops.  I was happy to be traveling with my mom, exploring a great city.  Coming back into the plaza, we found the puppets had moved.  I wanted my mom to see another cool church so we cut back to another street.  In the plaza of the other church, we were given a great show as the puppets and performers had taken over the square. What I'm assuming were traditional Catalan dances, were being acted out on the stage.  Assembling human pyramids to sound of little flutes, the children would climb on the backs of the adults to form a pyramid.  We walked a little on Las Ramblas, only to be quickly overwhelmed by the parade.

Five large bangs from the blank muskets started the parade and soon the sea of people parted to allow the stream of swirling, dancing puppets pass through.  We watched for a while before sneaking into the metro and taking it to the "Montjüic stop."  We had to transfer to a separate rail car, that climbed up the mountain.  Deciding against taking the teleferic, cable car, right away, we walked up the hill, stopping to read about Barcelona on a bench in my Lonely Planet.  I really wanted to take the teleferic from the mountain to the beach, and my mom wanted to see "El Pueblo Esapñol."  

We decided to take the bus down the hill to el Pueblo Español.  While waiting for bus number 50 on a bench in the sun, a huge group of middle-age Italians were all trying to take a picture together.  I offered to take a picture for them and we ended up having a long conversation.  They were really fun.  We then took the bus down to Pueblo Español, or seemingly, as we took it down the hill and then walked up the steps of the incredible entrance of the Catalonian Museum of Art.

We had lunch in one of the outdoor cafe's before wandering around and eventually finding the entrance to Pueblo Español.  Built for the 1922 World Fair, Pueblo Español is like a Spanish Theme park dedicated to the different regions of Spain.  The architecture and design of each region are represented.  Very touristy but fun to see the different places in a limited amount of time.  We stopped into a great art exhibit that had some Dalí and Picasso.  

I really wanted to try and take the teleferic to the beach and so we walked quickly over to Hotel Miramar to try and catch it.  It was closed due to high wind.  I was disappointed.  We sat on a bench to decide what we wanted to do.  After regrouping, we took the metro back to the hotel where we relaxed and had a cafe in the hotel restaurant while checking our email.  

For dinner we decided to head back to Port Vell.  We took the 19 bus all the way there, getting to see the city at night.  All the restaurants were overpriced in that area, so we walked back to where we'd eaten the first night and stopped in a place we'd passed previously.  They doorman recognized me and shook my hand as I came in.  We had a cute table next to the window with a harbor view.  The restaurant walls were painted a weird shade of lime green.  We shared our dishes.  I ordered fried calamari and my mom grilled salmon, both really good.  After dinner we had traditional Barcelona Cava, in amazingly long, "flower-stem," glasses.  Here's to you from Barcelona!

We decided against walking around more and took the metro back to the hotel.  We hung out in the lobby talking to an interesting couple before going upstairs to fall quickly asleep.

In The City Of Gaudí

March 21st,

We woke up at 8:30 am having slept for 10 hours.  Not wanting to waste anymore time on the morning we quickly got ready and headed down the street, stopping at a bread store to pick up another baguette and cheese and eating it on the way to La Sagrada Familia.

There wasn't much of a line and we paid for the double ticket of La Sagrada Familia and Guadí's house in Parc Güell.  My third time in Barcelona, this was the first time I'd been inside Guadí's masterpiece.  The interior was incredible with his amazing columns and beam supports looking like tree trunks and the beautiful stained glass windows showering the entrance with colored light.  Unlike straight, static, traditional columns, Guadi's columns leaned and spread out in their structural elegance.  We got in the line for the elevator, standing behind some obnoxious American teenagers.  When it was our turn for the elevator we were let in a group of six and then allowed to ride i up.  Looking through the glass window we rose through one of the incredible spires, affording incredible views of the city.  

Like the other bell towers I'd climbed in Europe, the spire of La Sagrada Familia towered above the rest of the city.  We took some pictures at the top and then descended the vertiginous stairs, stopping to peek at the many details that Guadí had put in.  We kept joking that La Sagrada Familia would never be finished and that the workers were fake as we kept hearing construction noises but only saw one guy actually working.  Downstairs, we explored the cathedral and the small museum dedicated to Guadí and the construction of the cathedral.  Inspired by nature, the Sagrada Familia is pure mathematical and geometric genius.  

Deciding to dedicate the day to Guadí, we then took the metro to Parc Güell.  We'd been meaning to take the tourist bus, but had been doing so well with the public transportation that it was unnecessary.  The difference between Northern and Southern Spain was clearly demonstrated by the in street elevators leading up to Parc Güell.  We followed the throngs of tourists to the park's incredible entrance.  I think my mom really enjoyed it as we wound through the palm fronds, mosaic tiled benches and listened to sitar playing street artists.  We wandered along the paths heading to the Casa Guadí and Museum where we quickly entered using our double ticket.  Although I'd seen it before, I still really enjoyed his house and noticed a few new things.  Outside we met some of the people my mom had sat next to on the plane.  A LA couple and their daughter who was "like studying abroad" in Barcelona.  After walking around the park a little more, we ended our visit after watching some more street performers.

Walking down the hill we got a little lost before finding the metro stop.  We took it to "Passeig de Gracia," and came out in front of  Guadí's Casa Batlló.  An incredible facade, the structure was bulbous and radiant in the sunlight.  We paid the 15 euros to enter, receiving an audio guide that was almost too in depth.  This was another incredible architectural feat by Guadí in which the house itself became a surreal environment.  Designed to be an "undersea world," in which the colors (level of blue), shapes and architecture would change on each floor, Guadí elevated simple materials of wood, glass, tile and iron to levels of exquisite art.  I loved wandering the different rooms with white arches and influence by nature.  The house was his creation, unique in form and shape.  The outside patio looking up gave a spectacular view of the house, allowing all of the details to shimmer and radiate.  We took the stairs to the roof where we had an even better view of the incredible design.  We walked to the end finding a little room with a fountain.  Back in the attic we walked along the white hallways, admiring the spectacular arches that Guadí had perfected.  We took the glass elevator down to the ground floor.  

Outside we decided to continue our Guadí day by visiting La Pedrera, Guadí's apartment building.  The line ended up being too long, so we instead went to "La Caixa Art Exhibit," right next door for free.  The tribute to the Catalan artist Monpu, who seemed to only paint fish and naked women," wasn't that great but we did get to see the inside of La Pedrera which was the best part.

We took the metro back to Hospital Sant Pau and after buying some fruit, bread and cheese we had a small picnic in the incredible complex.  The hospital de Sant Pu was made up of hundreds of beautiful old buildings with glazed tile roofs and glaring gargoyles.  We headed back to the hotel to relax before dinner. 

During our visit to Casa Battló, I'd received a call form the airport saying our bag was going to be delivered between 7 and 10pm.  When we arrived at the hotel, they said there was a bag there for my mom.  The bag was red like my mom's but not hers.  It belonged to someone from North Carolina.  My mom was upset and nervous that something had happened to her bag and we spent the next hour having the helpful hotel receptionist call the airport.  Although still nervous about the added stress t our situation we decided to go upstairs, relax and wait.

At 9:00pm we went down to wait in the lobby for Alex and Vanessa who were going to be taking us out to dinner.  At 9:10 the baggage came and in the few minutes we had to wait, my mom went upstairs to change into clean clothes.  Vanessa came in two minutes later and I talked to her before my mom came down.

We ended up having a great evening as Alex and Vanessa took us to a traditional Catalonian Restaurant where we had a variety of tapas style dishes.  We had pan con tomate, pate, lots of ham, bread and egg dishes.  They ordered two pitchers of sangría as well.  With some convincing from Alex and Vanessa, I decided to not take the job in Barcelona and will be traveling this summer to Greece and Turkey.  

After dinner they drove us back to the hotel.  I fell immediately asleep, but the heavy chocolate dessert that we had had at the restaurant kept my mom up all night.